‘Every Cook Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on List of London’s Top Dining Destinations.
Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.
An Surprise Honour
This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
The Signature Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Rising Above the Titans
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
A Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Story of Perseverance
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
An Accomplishment for the Culture
This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.